miscellany from the journal

This Friday, I leave you with some other voices. All from the shop journal.

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I sit here & wonder: When in my life did I decide to get addicted to coffee?

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My extended family all drank black coffee, so when we would get together I would insist I liked black coffee too.

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Sumus
Quad
Sumus
“We are what we are.”

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President endorses gay marriage and a large Pushcart latte to go all on the same day–is this heaven?

We’d like to hear from you too. Take a minute to draw a picture, or write down your thoughts. And if you’ve got something longer brewing in you, shoot us an email at info@pushcartcoffee.com with the subject “Journal Submission.”

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our new neighbor

Welcome to our new neighbor, Malt and Mold! We even share our address of 221 East Broadway. A couple of months ago, Kevin became a regular at the shop, stopping by for coffee when he needed a break from stripping the paint off of his tin ceiling. We’ve all been curious to see the finished product, and we were not disappointed when he opened his doors last Sunday, May 6th. The space inside is beautiful—warmly lit, with an original black and white tiled floor and a beautifully restored tin ceiling, of course.  More exciting than the space though is what’s inside it—shelves stocked with gourmet jams and pickles, chocolates, yoghurt, ice cream, locally made knishes…not to mention the cheese counter, displaying a carefully curated selection of local and imported cheeses. Then there are the taps on the wall—not yet filled, but promising good things in the weeks to come!

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The business, combining Kevin’s passion for craft beer and his wife Cha Cha’s passion for cheese, has been in the works for about a year. After working as a headhunter for eighteen years, Kevin was burnt out and ready for a new challenge.

It’s a bit of a gamble, opening up on this out of the way bit of East Broadway, but Kevin felt the neighborhood was ready, wanting it. After the first week open, he’s glowing with the response he’s received. “I just can’t wait to see what it will be like when we have the beer on tap,” he says. Kevin has been seeking out small breweries that self-distribute. He’s especially excited to offer a rotating list of seasonal craft beers.

After the beer and cheese, the rest fell into place. “My wife thought about what she’d want to pick up for a quick, simple dinner—bread, cheese, olive oil, some salami and prosciutto. And I thought ‘If Charles Bukowski was going to a high-end beer and cheese shop, what would he like to see? Of course the fact that Charles Bukowksi would never go to a high end beer and cheese shop didn’t dissuade me from that.’” Three-year-old daughter Sadie had her say as well–the shelves are stocked with Annie’s fruit snacks and cheese crackers.

When I stopped by to chat, Kevin was making sandwiches—taleggio and beer-spiced mustard on bread from Sullivan Street Bakery. Extra yum. I practically inhaled mine. He’ll be offering these and other concoctions of cheesy goodness for lunches on-the-go.

A transplant from the East Village eight years ago, Kevin has come to love the neighborhood. “My wife dragged me kicking and screaming from my place on St. Marks between 1st and A, the best street in the world.” Now with a three-year-old, he appreciates the quiet, the open space, the playgrounds.  And the proximity of good coffee, of course (wink, wink!). We’re glad to have him.

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Photos by Lisa Fischoff, The Simple Spatula. Words by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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a trip to the market with lisa

A couple of months ago, Jamie took me on his personalized tour of the Lower East Side. To follow up, on Wednesday, Lisa and I headed out to explore one of her favorite places in the neighborhood—The Essex Street Market. Stepping into the Market, located on the busy corner of Essex and Delancey in a rather nondescript (though historic) brick building, feels a bit like discovering a secret—the unlikely mix of gourmet food and family run grocery stalls tucked away from the bustle of the street.

The Market was founded in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia as part of an effort to clean up the city’s streets and provide an indoor venue for the pushcarts that served as the primary means of commerce in the neighborhood. Initially, The Market took on the character of the Italian and Jewish immigrants that made up the merchants and customers, but as the demographic began to change in the 1950s, with many Jewish families moving to Brooklyn and an influx of Puerto Rican immigrants, the flavor of the Market changed as well. After a slump in the 70s and 80s with the rise of supermarkets, the Market has regained its footing after a major renovation in the 90s and the recent addition of many gourmet and specialty food stalls. The Essex Street Market has become a destination for foodies and tourists from around the world while it remains a neighborhood market serving a diverse population of regulars.

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Our first stop is Saxelby Cheesemongers, a tiny brightly-lit stall at the entrance of the Market that sells regional artisanal cheeses. It is here that we buy the creamy Bayley Hazen Blue for our arugula salad, and the extra sharp McCadam Cheddar for our heritage ham and cheddar sandwich. We’re lucky to find owner Anne Saxelby at the stall. She tells us about our cheddar, from the McCadam co-op, the New York State branch of Cabot, aged for over a year. Anne just celebrated her six-year anniversary at the Market a few days before. As a young entrepreneur, Anne was discouraged by the astronomical rents in the city. She checked out Essex Market on the suggestion of Robert LaValva, who founded the New Amsterdam Market, and was immediately taken by it. When Anne opened up in 2006, the Market was on the cusp of revitalization. From its tiny stall here, still the only retail location, Saxelby’s has transformed the New York cheese scene by bringing to market regional cheeses from small farms in the Northeast.

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Our next stop is Viva Fruits and Vegetables, where we buy kale, cucumbers, onions and other produce. You can also find plantains, cassava, yucca, sugarcane and a large selection of dried chilies. At Batista, which specializes in Hispanic foods, canned and fresh, we buy a bunch of bananas. We peer in Aminova’s Barber shop as we pass, a long-time staple of the Market, beloved for it’s cheap haircuts and eclectic collection of clocks.

We arrive at Heritage Meat Shop, open at the Market for less than a year, where we get the delicious ham for our ham and cheddar sandwich. Started in 2001 by Slow Food USA’s founder Patrick Martins, Heritage Foods USA sources genetically diverse sustainably produced meat from small family farms and delivers them to consumers through their website. Essex Market, where you can find antibiotic and hormone-free cured and fresh heritage meats as well as sandwiches, is their first retail location. We learn that our ham is cured in Missouri at Paradise Locker Meats, using an old family recipe. Heritage Foods USA is committed to a fully traceable food supply; through their website, customers can enter the certificate number provided with their purchases to get detailed information about the farm the meat came from, the conditions under which the animal was raised, the age of the animal, and what it was fed. As someone who likes to know where stuff comes from, I think that’s pretty cool.

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On our way out, we linger by Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, eyeing their colorful lollipops and hand-dipped truffles, but do not give into temptation. Another day. Out on the street again, the bustle of Delancey takes over and the Market hunches back into itself, quiet and unassuming brick, waiting for another day, another discovery.

Story by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly. Photos by Lisa Fischoff, The Simple Spatula.

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new tree on the block

Meet our tree. She’s a lovely lacebark elm with young bright green leaves and a slim trunk. How she came to us is a funny story about the netherworld of New York City bureaucracy. Over a year ago, Jamie applied for a tree for the block through the MillionTreesNYC program. He began receiving vague and cryptic emails every couple of months informing him that his application was “under review.” Then early one gray Tuesday morning three weeks ago, the residents of 221 East Broadway were awakened from their slumber by a man jack hammering the sidewalk. For two weeks, we had only a square of dirt in the sidewalk, and no word from the city. Then, last Thursday, a man showed up in the middle of the day with a tree and a shovel. He popped the tree in the ground, and that was that.

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Photo and story by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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spring at bialystocker

The flowers are blooming behind the locked gates of the now empty Bialystoker Home for the Aged, the impressive art-deco entry way, carved in symbols of the twelve tribes of Israel is caged in scaffolding. Forbidding looking official notices cover the glass doors.

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After eighty years of service, the home has sat empty since November when it was closed due to deep debt. Ninety-five elderly residents were moved to other facilities. The neighborhood has been abuzz with outrage, rumor, and frustration. The board has been accused of mismanagement and inside dealing, while they claim the debt was a result of inadequate Medicaid and Medicare reimbursements.

Players from all sides pass through our shop, directly across from the distinctive tower, speaking in low voices over the counter. Many are now fighting to get the building designated as a landmark by the Landmarks Preservation Commission, to save it from demolition in the event of a sale to a developer. The home was opened in June 1931, founded by a Bialystoker aid society as an alternative to municipal institutions, named after their Polish hometown. It is considered by many to be an important cultural and architectural landmark of the Jewish immigrant community of the Lower East Side.

In the meantime, we continue to serve coffee all, and the courtyard of the home has burst into pink and green despite neglect of the plant life.

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Story and pictures by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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rainy days and mochas

A funny thing happens when it rains. Everybody orders mochas. We don’t even have a mocha on the menu, but as soon as it starts raining, people ask. So we make them, with the same rich bittersweet chocolate ganache we use for hot chocolate.

Something about rainy days, I suppose, makes us crave childhood comforts—blankets, hot chocolate. We’ve forgotten an umbrella; the hems of our jeans are soaked four inches up our legs; we hunch over to protect our bags, the precious documents and computers inside. And so dragging sodden souls inside, we reach for something warm, sweet, decadent.

Indeed, it was following a tempestuous and salt-saturated month at sea that Marco Polo was forced to harbor at Mokha on the Red Sea coast of Yemen to restock supplies. Wandering through the colorful market, he came across the Arabian coffee beans he would bring back to Europe. Mokha would be the major port for coffee from the 15th to 17th centuries and the small round beans with a robust dark chocolate flavor that were grown in Yemen came to be known as Mocha beans. The chocolatey  drink we love today is a European invention, and the Mocha Arabica beans are still valued for their deep flavor.

Today in Mokha it is a balmy 88 degrees. If you’re wandering soggy in the rain, come in for a mocha to transport you to warmer climes and exotic ports. Marco. Polo. Marco. Polo. We’re in here.

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Photo credit Lisa Fischoff, The Simple Spatula. Words by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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familiar faces: moe

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Most mornings, Moe is our first customer of the day. Sometimes he arrives before we have pulled up the gate. He takes a seat, and chats to us while we set up shop. He no longer has to ask for “one of your famous muffins” and “a mug of decaffeinated coffee.”

Born on Cherry Street in 1927 to a mother from Lithuania and father from Poland, Moe is a first-generation lifelong resident of the Lower East Side. His internal map of the neighborhood is overlaid with characters and scenes from the past become legend, almost, by the power of his nostalgia. “I’m going way back here,” he likes to say before leaning in. He lists the streets he lived on–”Cherry Street, that ring a bell? Orchard Street! Madison Street!”—grinning, his voice rising with each name as if he’s scoring points for each correct answer.

“Orchard Street. Sunday. Pushcarts, as far as the eye could see.” The line is familiar, rehearsed, the memory fixed firmly as a photograph. His voice gets low and conspiratorial as he adds, “Now, I’m going into politics. Across the street here, where the bank was…Burt Stand! Secretary of Tammany Hall. Very powerful.”

The most prominent points on his map are food-related, something I can appreciate. Guss’ Pickles on Essex, Sammy’s Steakhouse on Chrystie, where he would get mush steak and Romanian tenderloin. Honey and Spice Bakery, on Clinton. And his favorite. “Gertel’s on Hester Street! During the high holidays, people came from all over the boroughs to get their cakes. I miss their Danish if anything. Their Danish was to die for!” We can only hope that in fifty years, we’ve got a Moe declaiming the virtues of “our famous muffins.”

We listen as we dial in the espresso machine and put out the pastries. He tells us about his older brother, taken prisoner during the Battle of the Bulge, who came back a different man, mean, selfish. Though Moe is shocked that I hadn’t heard of Guss’ Pickles (“very very famous!” he declares), he stops mid-story to ask, “are you familiar with World War II?”

Moe loves an audience. His voice takes on a performative rhythm, and he pauses for dramatic effect. He can go on a bit, but the thing is, Moe reminds me of my grandfather, telling his stories with the flare of practice. Expecting wide eyes and laughter. I live far from my grandfather, and don’t see him often. So I make sure to greet Moe, to sit down with him for a minute or two, and listen to him tell me again about Gertel’s Danishes. When you see him, be sure to stop and listen. You’ll make his day.

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a penny for your thoughts

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Ever been to a shelter on the Appalachian Trail? Many of them have journals, simple black and white marbled mead notebooks, pages swollen with moisture and smeared with dirt, full of hiker’s names, doodles, lonely musings and humorous stories. I love reading these shelter logs, seeing the accumulation of names, brushing against the other lives and other laughs that have shared the space.

Inspired by this idea, we put a journal in the shop a couple of months ago. Here are some highlights:

4/4/12–Ma’s still in the hospital, I’m doing my part. I decided to drop into the pushcart before going to see Dr.

Amazing name and pictures of how the Lower E Side once was. My ancestors came here turn of the century—4 friends—4 daughters of friends. Thanks for capturing an old world that is lost to us now.

I thought I thought a thought but the thought I thought I thought wasn’t the thought I thought I thought. If the thought I thought I thought had been the thought I thought, I  wouldn’t have thought so much. :) A 3/28/12

I got in a fight with an old lady today. I won!

4/15/2012—Today we went hiking @ harriman state park. Looked for the ghost town of Doodletown, but didn’t find it. Rounded out the day w/ icecream and Pushcart’s first ever rootbeer float. Life’s good.

When you change the way you look @ things, the things you look at change.

If you were a fruit, what would you be? Avocado, black krim tomato (because they’re yummy and I could eat myself), peach, starfruit, banana (b/c I’m soft and squishyyyyyyy!), mangosteen (kind of weird looking on the outside but delightful within), cucumber (because everyone thinks it’s a vegetable).

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Next time you’re in the shop, take a look through. The journal’s full of doodles and mini conversations between customers, debating their favorite muffins or whether or not they like hairbender. Take a moment to tell us what brings you in, what kind of fruit you would be, and in which languages you can order a cup of coffee.

By Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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play day in the park

In the early mornings, the neighborhood’s Chinese residents practice tai chi on the western edge of park by the once grand but now silent and sadly deteriorated Jacob Schiff Memorial Fountain. Lunchtime sees postal workers gathering at picnic tables for a midday break, businessmen in suits enjoying sandwiches in the sun and young women gossiping about coworkers on a bench. Young children not yet in school have the run of the play structures while anxious mothers watch from nearby, calling out occasionally in Spanish, Chinese, Hebrew or English—“feet first down the slide please,” “give Ben a turn,” or “don’t you put that in your mouth!” Once the schools let out, the bigger kids take over–lanky teenagers dominate the basketball courts, precocious elementary school kids dictate rules to games of tag and the quieter ones gather in the shade of a tree to invent a world.

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This scene, now common to city parks, was not always so. In fact, the 1903 opening of Seward Park, the first permanent municipal playground in the nation, marked an important shift in the social and political discourse of the time. With the push for child labor laws at the turn of the century, children released from the factory were turned loose to play in the dirty, dangerous, and overcrowded streets. The first play areas were established by private reform groups such as the Outdoor Recreation League, founded by settlement house leaders Charles Stover and Lillian Wald in 1898. After the city cleared rows of decaying tenement buildings between Essex and Clinton, leaving a dusty and vacant rubble heap, the ORL stepped in to clean it up, planting trees and grass, and building play equipment. Journalist and reformer Jacob A. Riis recounts this touching scene of the sight that would become Seward Park:

“The dusty square was jammed with a mighty multitude. It was not an ideal spot, for it had not rained in weeks, and powdered sand and cinders had taken wing and floated like a pall over the perspiring crowd. But it was heaven to them. A hundred men and boys stood in line, waiting their turn upon the bridge ladder and the travelling rings, that hung full of struggling and squirming humanity, groping madly for the next grip. No failure, no rebuff, discouraged them. Seven boys and girls rode with looks of deep concern—it is their way—upon each end of the seesaw, and two squeezed into each of the forty swings that had room for one, while a hundred counted time and saw that none had too much.”

(The Battle with the Slum; “Letting in the Light”)

I love his description of “the mighty multitude” and “squirming humanity.” Also, the kids playing on the seesaw “with looks of deep concern.” You can really feel how crowded and desperate the neighborhood was–even play required strict rationing and serious concentration.

In 1897, the Small Parks Advisory Committee was established by the city, with the goal of providing safe, structured play areas for children that would be a “healthful influence upon morals and conduct . . . for the physical energies of youth, which, if not directed to good ends, will surely manifest themselves in evil tendencies.” Playgrounds were envisioned by reformers to provide edifying spaces for training moral and upstanding citizens. In 1902, the City Parks Department began taking over the operation and improvement of the parks opened by the ORL. The following year, Seward Park was opened featuring a running track, an open play area, a children’s garden, marble bathes and a limestone and terra cotta terrace equipped with rocking chairs for mothers.

Seward Park, Opening Day

Structure and grand intentions aside, kids will be kids, and on October 17, 1903, 20,000 children, despite pouring rain, swarmed the gates of the Seward Park, climbed fences, and perched on rooftops and fire escapes to glimpse the excitement. Policemen were overwhelmed and speeches planned for the afternoon had to be canceled, reported The New York Times.

A lot has changed since that rainy October day more than a century ago. No more marble baths and rocking chairs, for one, and perhaps a little more space to breath. But the rainbow painted jungle gyms, the red and yellow tulips, the flourishing garden, still offer a welcome relief from the press of city life and a place where kids can make up the rules.

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Sources:

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notes on those who come and go

An enthusiastic man, first customer of the morning, wearing a black fedora complimented me on my hat, gray wool bucket hat, herringbone pattern, which I found in my grandmother’s house years after she died. He, a hat collector, it turns out.

Liz behind the bar during the morning rush, never flustered. Finding her rhythm in NYC after Peace Corps service terminated early by evacuation from Kazakhstan.

A mounted police officer, bought black tea, invited me out to meet her horse. Horse’s name, Torch. Silkiest horse I’ve ever touched.

Peddler Matt, returned from a month on tour with his band. On the road, brewed Stumptown Coffee in a French press. Way to represent.

Firefighters double-parked truck, came in for coffee. Alarm went off before last drink ready. “I’ll be back.” Ran out to the truck and started the siren. Half hour later, came back. Made him a fresh latte.

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By Emily Strasser, Seabrightly.

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