A couple of months ago, Jamie took me on his personalized tour of the Lower East Side. To follow up, on Wednesday, Lisa and I headed out to explore one of her favorite places in the neighborhood—The Essex Street Market. Stepping into the Market, located on the busy corner of Essex and Delancey in a rather nondescript (though historic) brick building, feels a bit like discovering a secret—the unlikely mix of gourmet food and family run grocery stalls tucked away from the bustle of the street.
The Market was founded in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia as part of an effort to clean up the city’s streets and provide an indoor venue for the pushcarts that served as the primary means of commerce in the neighborhood. Initially, The Market took on the character of the Italian and Jewish immigrants that made up the merchants and customers, but as the demographic began to change in the 1950s, with many Jewish families moving to Brooklyn and an influx of Puerto Rican immigrants, the flavor of the Market changed as well. After a slump in the 70s and 80s with the rise of supermarkets, the Market has regained its footing after a major renovation in the 90s and the recent addition of many gourmet and specialty food stalls. The Essex Street Market has become a destination for foodies and tourists from around the world while it remains a neighborhood market serving a diverse population of regulars.

Our first stop is Saxelby Cheesemongers, a tiny brightly-lit stall at the entrance of the Market that sells regional artisanal cheeses. It is here that we buy the creamy Bayley Hazen Blue for our arugula salad, and the extra sharp McCadam Cheddar for our heritage ham and cheddar sandwich. We’re lucky to find owner Anne Saxelby at the stall. She tells us about our cheddar, from the McCadam co-op, the New York State branch of Cabot, aged for over a year. Anne just celebrated her six-year anniversary at the Market a few days before. As a young entrepreneur, Anne was discouraged by the astronomical rents in the city. She checked out Essex Market on the suggestion of Robert LaValva, who founded the New Amsterdam Market, and was immediately taken by it. When Anne opened up in 2006, the Market was on the cusp of revitalization. From its tiny stall here, still the only retail location, Saxelby’s has transformed the New York cheese scene by bringing to market regional cheeses from small farms in the Northeast.

Our next stop is Viva Fruits and Vegetables, where we buy kale, cucumbers, onions and other produce. You can also find plantains, cassava, yucca, sugarcane and a large selection of dried chilies. At Batista, which specializes in Hispanic foods, canned and fresh, we buy a bunch of bananas. We peer in Aminova’s Barber shop as we pass, a long-time staple of the Market, beloved for it’s cheap haircuts and eclectic collection of clocks.
We arrive at Heritage Meat Shop, open at the Market for less than a year, where we get the delicious ham for our ham and cheddar sandwich. Started in 2001 by Slow Food USA’s founder Patrick Martins, Heritage Foods USA sources genetically diverse sustainably produced meat from small family farms and delivers them to consumers through their website. Essex Market, where you can find antibiotic and hormone-free cured and fresh heritage meats as well as sandwiches, is their first retail location. We learn that our ham is cured in Missouri at Paradise Locker Meats, using an old family recipe. Heritage Foods USA is committed to a fully traceable food supply; through their website, customers can enter the certificate number provided with their purchases to get detailed information about the farm the meat came from, the conditions under which the animal was raised, the age of the animal, and what it was fed. As someone who likes to know where stuff comes from, I think that’s pretty cool.

On our way out, we linger by Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, eyeing their colorful lollipops and hand-dipped truffles, but do not give into temptation. Another day. Out on the street again, the bustle of Delancey takes over and the Market hunches back into itself, quiet and unassuming brick, waiting for another day, another discovery.
Story by Emily Strasser, Seabrightly. Photos by Lisa Fischoff, The Simple Spatula.